Vigan: Journey to the Past
A trip to Vigan City, in the northern part of the Philippines, won't be complete without wandering through the streets of Calle Crisologo (Crisologo Street). It is reflective of Philippine towns during the 16th century, when the Spanish lay claim to the Philippine Isles. However, the history of Vigan starts well before the Spanish conquest. Before the Spaniards came, Vigan was already settled by the locals as well as Chinese immigrants. There was already a vibrant trading activity in the area, participated in by the Vigueños (Vigan locals), the Tinggian/Itneg settlers from Abra (a neighboring province), the Chinese, Japanese and other Asian traders.
The Itnegs brought gold dust from the Abra River which were then sold to Chinese and Vigueño merchants. In turn, the Chinese and Vigueños fashioned them into fine jewelry. The Chinese immigrants also brought with them burnay manufacturing techniques while the Vigueños provided the clay as well as the labor. The finished products were bought by the Itnegs who used them to store rice, seeds and water. The burnay jars were also used to ferment basi (sugarcane wine).
The Itnegs brought gold dust from the Abra River which were then sold to Chinese and Vigueño merchants. In turn, the Chinese and Vigueños fashioned them into fine jewelry. The Chinese immigrants also brought with them burnay manufacturing techniques while the Vigueños provided the clay as well as the labor. The finished products were bought by the Itnegs who used them to store rice, seeds and water. The burnay jars were also used to ferment basi (sugarcane wine).
When the Spaniards came in the late 16th century, laws regulating the economic, political, and social life of the people in its conquered lands were issued. These were contained in the Leyes de Indias (Laws of the Indies). One of its contributions -- that is prevalent in most towns in the Philippines -- are its laws on town planning. In it was the directive that the center of the town shall be the Plaza Mayor (central square). In Vigan, this is Plaza Salcedo. From the Plaza Mayor emanated a rectilinear grid of streets. Important edifices, like the City Hall and the Cathedral, can be found nearby.
After more than three centuries of occupation, the Filipinos revolted against Spanish colonial rule. This led to the Philippine Revolution. At that time, too, Cuba was waging a war of independence from Spain. In that revolt, the United States sent a battleship -- the USS Maine -- to protect its citizens and interests in Cuba. When the battleship sank and the U.S. backed Cuba's call for independence, Spain declared war on the U.S. This led to the Spanish-American War. Since the Philippines was also under Spain, the U.S. brought the Spanish-American War to the Philippines through a naval squadron that destroyed a Spanish fleet in Manila Bay.
With the defeat of the Spaniards, the Philippines, under Gen. Emilio Aguinaldo, declared independence. However, in actuality, Spain ceded the Philippines to the U.S. at a price of $20 million. After a few months, the U.S. made clear that they were assuming control of the Philippines. This led to the Philippine-American War. By November of 1899, Vigan was already occupied by the Americans. As the American occupation progressed, the Americans introduced their educational system, with English as the medium of instruction. The first teachers were the American soldiers themselves. They were subsequently replaced by real teachers. Until now, English is the medium of instruction in the Philippines. That is why, Filipinos can speak, write, read and understand English. The Philippines also inherited a system of government introduced by the Americans.
After more than three centuries of occupation, the Filipinos revolted against Spanish colonial rule. This led to the Philippine Revolution. At that time, too, Cuba was waging a war of independence from Spain. In that revolt, the United States sent a battleship -- the USS Maine -- to protect its citizens and interests in Cuba. When the battleship sank and the U.S. backed Cuba's call for independence, Spain declared war on the U.S. This led to the Spanish-American War. Since the Philippines was also under Spain, the U.S. brought the Spanish-American War to the Philippines through a naval squadron that destroyed a Spanish fleet in Manila Bay.
With the defeat of the Spaniards, the Philippines, under Gen. Emilio Aguinaldo, declared independence. However, in actuality, Spain ceded the Philippines to the U.S. at a price of $20 million. After a few months, the U.S. made clear that they were assuming control of the Philippines. This led to the Philippine-American War. By November of 1899, Vigan was already occupied by the Americans. As the American occupation progressed, the Americans introduced their educational system, with English as the medium of instruction. The first teachers were the American soldiers themselves. They were subsequently replaced by real teachers. Until now, English is the medium of instruction in the Philippines. That is why, Filipinos can speak, write, read and understand English. The Philippines also inherited a system of government introduced by the Americans.
Then came the Japanese. Vigan was invaded by the Japanese on December 10, 1941, just days after they bombed Pearl Harbor in Hawaii. Among the residents in Vigan during the Japanese occupation were two officers of the Imperial Japanese Army married to Filipinas. As the anti-Japanese guerrillas and their activities burgeoned and the advance of US troops was underway, the Japanese forces had to retreat. The two Japanese officers left their families in the care of a German priest. Otherwise, their families could suffer reprisals from the townspeople if left on their own or even with kin. In exchange, the German priest asked the Japanese officer who often confided in him, to spare Vigan from being razed to the ground just like other places in the Philippines. The Japanese officer agreed.
When the Japanese were safely at a distance from Vigan, the German priest sent word to the Americans -- who were planning to bomb Vigan -- that the Japanese had already left. It would then be useless to bomb the town. That is why, despite Vigan being occupied by the Japanese, its buildings, particularly the ancestral houses, remained intact.
When the Japanese were safely at a distance from Vigan, the German priest sent word to the Americans -- who were planning to bomb Vigan -- that the Japanese had already left. It would then be useless to bomb the town. That is why, despite Vigan being occupied by the Japanese, its buildings, particularly the ancestral houses, remained intact.
Soaking in the culture
With Vigan's rich and colorful history, it is no surprise that Vigueños have industries, food and religious rites that were influenced by different foreign cultures. Others are original homegrown traditions. Some of these are:
- Food & Wine - Vigan is known for its empanada (with longganisa and egg fillings), longganisa (garlicky sausage), basi (sugarcane wine) and chichacorn (corn snack). You can try them in a street dining setting at Plaza Burgos. Other local fare, such as pinapaitan and sinanglao (both containing beef innards), lumo (with pork blood), and pipian (chicken dish) can be savored at the Vigan Public Market.
- Woodwork - Vigueños produce furniture, decors and accessories that are often made of mahogany, narra (the Philippines' national tree), or acacia. They can be genuine antiques or faithful reproductions. They can also be a combination of old wood from previous parts of a house and newly-cut ones. Accessories, such as floor lamps, may also include capiz shells.
- Kattokong nga tabungaw - These are handcrafted hats made from bottle gourds. The upper part of the vegetable is cut, cleared, cleaned and dried. When dry, the exterior is varnished while the interior is lined with nito (a climbing vine known for its strength and resilience) or bamboo.
- Abel weaving - This is the art of weaving cotton, locally referred to as sagut. The finished products can take the form of clothing, bed covers, table napkins, pillow cases, towels, and robes, to name a few.
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- Semana Santa - Commemoration of the passion and death of Jesus Christ during Semana Santa or Holy Week is representative of several towns in the Philippines. It starts on Palm Sunday when people wave palm fronds in church for it to be blessed. By Thursday, people go to as many churches (Visita Iglesia) and relive the Stations of the Cross through prayer. By Friday, people participate in processions where several carrozas carry statues portraying the passion of Christ. Finally, the Easter celebration on Sunday starts at dawn where the carrozas bearing the Virgin Mary and the risen Christ meet.
- Festivities - One week-long celebration is the Viva Vigan Festival of the Arts which is celebrated on the first week of May. Part of the festival is Tres de Mayo. It is a religious celebration in honor of Sto. Cristo Milagroso de Vigan, often referred to by the locals as Apo Lakay. Aside from the Holy Mass celebrated in front of the small church, or Simbaan a Bassit as the locals call it, one can also see various ramadas. This looks like a trellised shed where palm fronds or other leaves are placed along with the town's produce such as a bunch of bananas, jackfruit, garlic, squash and a whole lot of other vegetables. Under these ramadas, traditional games are held, like the palo palayok (Philippine version of the pinyata, using a pot). Another is the Binatbatan Festival, which showcases the abel weaving industry through a street dancing competition. It also includes the Karbo Festival, during which carabaos (water buffaloes) are paraded. The said week-long festival is made more colorful with the calesa parade, Santacruzan (a pageant commemorating the search for the Holy Cross by Queen Helena and her son Constantine), a stage play, a fashion show, garden show, and trade fairs.
There's also the World Heritage Cities Solidarity Day which happens every 8th of September. One can witness the Repazzo de Vigan (a history parade), Historia Oral (where locals share their experiences with the local way of life, including its culture), Visita Museo ken Balbalay (listeners are told of stories regarding the owners of some ancestral houses), Fotografias de Recuerdos (an art exhibit), and Putajes de Ayer (where you can taste food that are identified with Vigan).